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Replacing Brakes
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In this Job of the Month we're looking at replacing a set of disc and drum brakes.
This is relatively easy to do. If it's your first time this guide will take you through the job step by step. If you need to talk to a Parts Pro, stop by your local PartSource store and they will be happy to help.
Let's get started.
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A few things before you begin |
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Always replace brakes in pairs, no need to say more. Make sure the parking brake is off if you're working on the rear brakes.
Check wheels that are not raised off the ground.
Disassemble one side at a time in case you need to refer to the other side when reassembling. Trust me; it's useful.
In case you need them, you can always find free print outs of specific vehicle instructions and torque specifications from Mitchell on Demand at your local PartSource store.
Make sure you have all your tools and supplies you need before you begin. It's better to have extra spare parts ready for anything that might need to be replaced. The last thing you want to do is go shopping when the car is up on the jack.
When taking parts apart, be organized. Keep similar parts together in a safe place where they won't get lost and layout parts in a way that will allow you to put them back in the same order.
Make Safety Your Top Priority
Every vehicle is different. When it comes to maintenance and repairs, always follow the vehicle's owner's manual. Don't work with a Philips when the job calls for a flat. Substituting tools can compromise your safety or your vehicle's performance.
Safety should be your number one priority. Don't smoke, drink alcoholic beverages, or wear a necktie while working on the car. And watch out for hot objects, sharp instruments, hazardous materials and other potential safety hazards in and around your workspace.
Finally, when the fun turns to frustration or if the job requires specialized knowledge beyond your abilities, seek the assistance of a Parts Pro, professional mechanic or installer. The last thing we want is someone getting hurt.
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Removing Disc Brakes
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 Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel before you jack up the vehicle. |
 Now raise the vehicle and support it safely. |
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REMEMBER: To avoid a bone crushing injury, or death even, it's a good idea to place a safety stand under the raised part of the vehicle.
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 Remove wheel and loosen the caliper bolts. |
FIGURE A - Sliding caliper front wheel disc brake assembly 
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If your vehicle has a two-piece caliper, like some late GM models, loosen all the bolts before removing the caliper.
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 Remove caliper mounting bolts and the caliper itself from the steering knuckle. |
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REMEMBER: Never let the caliper hang freely by the brake hose if you don't want to ruin it. Using the 12" tie straps, tie the caliper up to another part of the vehicle to prevent any damage to the hose.
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 Separate the caliper sections if needed, then remove the brake pads and any shims or anti-rattle clips. |
 Clean the caliper with some brake cleaning spray. Check the caliper for wear or damage to pistons, seals, bleeder screws, bushings or structural damage. Replace accordingly. |
 Remove the caliper bolts/sliders from the caliper. Does it look stripped, pitted, rusty or damaged? Replace if necessary. |
 Add lube to the bolts/sliders by applying a good chunk of caliper lube to parts the caliper slides on. It's also a good idea to apply lube to the inside of the bushings where the sliders go through. |
 Install the bolts and sliders back into the caliper. |
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REMEMBER: Properly lubed and functioning caliper bolts/sliders will help prevent premature wear and failure of brake pads, rotors and calipers.
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 If you're replacing or machining the rotors, now's the time to remove them. If not, go to Installing Disc Brakes. |
 With some cars removing the rotor is as simple as sliding it off the hub assembly once the caliper is removed. Be sure to mark the rotor in relation to the hub so it can be reinstalled in its original position. Other vehicles may have the rotor and hub incorporated into one part. This is more common on RWD trucks, vans and some older RWD cars. To remove this type of rotor, remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut, washer and outer bearing from the spindle, and then slide the rotor off. |
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Any time you have this type of rotor removed; always repack the bearings with new grease. It's also a good time to check all off the seals and bearings and replace them if needed.
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 If you are reusing old rotors, remove any bearings and seals and take them to your local PartSource store for inspection and machining. You'll have a better idea of how long the rotors will last. Also, new brake pads will work better on a freshly machined surface. |
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Always clean machined rotors with brake cleaner before use.
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Installing Disc Brakes
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Install any bearings or seals needed, then simply reinstall the rotors the same way you took them off. |
FIGURE B - Disc Brakes 
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On rotors that don't incorporate the hub with the rotor, clean any rust or debris from the seating area with a wire brush so it will sit straight. Using anti-seize on the area where the rotors seats to the hub will make it easier to remove the rotor next time.
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For spindle type rotors, be sure to follow proper spindle nut torque procedures for the application. |
Before installing new brake pads the caliper piston needs to be compressed. This will cause brake fluid to be pushed back up the lines into the master cylinder. It may cause the master cylinder to overflow. It’s best if you remove the cap and some brake fluid from the master cylinder before compressing the caliper piston. Compress the piston very slowly! Otherwise, you'll damage your master cylinder. |
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REMEMBER: Brake fluid is corrosive. Unless you want to alter the colour of your car, DO NOT spill any of it. There are different ways to compress different calipers. If you do it the wrong way you'll ruin the caliper completely. If you're unsure about anything, use the PartSource Loan a Tool Kit #18, or use Mitchell on Demand, to avoid any costly mistakes.
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Once the caliper is compressed, install any shims, and anti-rattle clips. Don't reuse old shims or anti-rattle clips. It's not a good idea to reuse these items. |
Apply disc brake quiet to the backside of the brake pads. |
Install new brake pads onto the caliper, paying attention to inboard and outboard pad position. |
Now apply anti-seize to caliper bolt threads, and install the caliper. Be sure to use proper torque setting on caliper bolts. |
If the outer pads have locking "ears", use large pliers to bend them over until they touch the caliper to prevent any pad movement. |
Everything should be ready now. Double check your work, and re-check those torque specs just to be sure. |
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Removing Drum Brakes
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Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel before you jack up the vehicle. |
Now raise the vehicle and support it safely. |
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REMEMBER: If the drums don't come off, don't pry any tools against the backing plate, or things will get ugly.
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Depending on the car, there will be an access hole in either the drum or backing plate to access the adjuster. If there is a rubber plug in the hole, remove it. |
Using the brake adjuster tool or a small screwdriver, turn the star shaped adjuster wheel inside until the drum spins freely and can be removed. |
FIGURE C - Drum Brakes 
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On some vehicles, like Chryslers, you may have to remove the grease cap, cotter pin, lock nut and washer before the drum will come off. On other vehicles, like my mother-in-law's Ford Tempo, you can use an Impact Driver to remove stubborn screws that are holding on the rear drum. An impact driver is a tool you hit with a hammer to loosen rusted and hard to turn screws.
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Once the drum is removed, take a look at the brake set-up and make a mental note of how everything goes together. Also look for any wet-looking parts. If anything does look wet, you probably have a leaking wheel cylinder, or rear wheel seal. This will have to be replaced. If you don't replace these, the leaking fluid will ruin the new shoes you're about to install. |
Remove the return springs that pull the shoe against the wheel cylinder. |
Remove the hold down springs on the shoes. |
Remove parking brake cable (if applicable). |
By pulling each shoe away from the center, both brake shoes should be able to come off together. |
Remove the adjusting screw assembly and spring from the shoes. |
Remove any remaining hardware, retaining rings or parking brake levers still attached to the shoes. |
Once all the parts are removed check for abnormal wear and damage. |
 If you're reusing the brake drums it's a good idea to take them to your local PartSource for inspection and machining. |
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Always clean machined drums with brake clean before installing them.
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 Clean the backing plate with brake clean and use silicone lube on any contact points. |
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Installing Drum Brakes
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Attach new hardware and any reused parts to the new brake shoes. |
Apply anti-seize to the adjuster threads. |
Install the shoes in reverse of order of removal. Make sure all the parts are in the right position. |
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If you're not sure how to put everything back together, or want to double check your work, take the drum off the other side of the car and use that side as a reference or call PartSource.
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Install your new or freshly machined drums. If they're fastened with a lock nut make sure you follow the right torque specs. |
Double check all your work and make sure the drum spins freely. |
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REMEMBER: If you're replacing rear brake shoes and/or drums you may have to adjust the parking brake cables so it functions properly. Specific vehicle instructions are available from Mitchell on Demand at your local PartSource store and can be printed out for free.
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Once you're satisfied and everything looks good, install the wheel and repeat for the other side of the car. |
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REMEMBER: Always torque wheel lug nuts properly. And for Pete's sake, don't use an impact gun on lug nuts! Over torqued lug nuts can ruin new rotors by causing them to warp.
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- Child's Play 
- Mother-In-laws Do It
- Tricky at Times 
- Instructions Required
