How To: Replace Brake Calipers - PartSource: Automotive, Truck Parts & Accessories

How To Replace Brake Calipers

A sticky caliper may not be much of a problem when the conditions are good, but on the wet and windy roads of spring, it can cause your car to keep going when you have your foot on the brake. An uneven position of the caliper can also cause an uneven brake. Both these situations can cause serious problems. That’s why The Part Source Pros want to make it easier for you to replace your calipers and feel more secure on the road.

If you have any questions or if you're unsure of anything, feel free to contact the Parts Pros at your local PartSource. They’ll always ready to help, no matter what the job is.

Let’s go!

Make Safety Your Top Priority

Every vehicle is different, so when it comes to maintenance and repairs, always follow the vehicle's owner's manual. Don't work with a Philips when it calls for flat. Substituting tools can compromise your safety or your vehicle's performance.

Safety should be your number one priority, so don't smoke, drink alcoholic beverages, or wear a necktie. And watch out for hot objects, sharp instruments, hazardous materials and other potential safety hazards in and around your workspace.

And finally, when the fun turns to frustration or if the job requires specialized knowledge beyond your abilities, seek the assistance of a Parts Pro, professional mechanic or installer. The last thing we want is someone getting hurt.

Before You Begin

Calipers may come as “non loaded” or “semi-loaded”. Non loaded calipers will need the mounting hardware from the old calipers to complete the installation. Semi-loaded calipers come with the necessary hardware to install. All you need are you’re preferred brand of brake pads.

Free print outs of vehicle specific instructions and torque specifications are available from Mitchell on Demand at your local PartSource.

Always replace brakes in pairs
Make sure your parking brake is off if working on the rear brakes
Chock any wheels that are not raised off the ground
Disassemble only one side at a time in case you need to refer to the other side when reassembling

Removal


Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel before you jack up the vehicle.
Raise and support vehicle.
IMPORTANT - Always place a safety stand under the raised part of the vehicle. If the vehicle slips off of the jack, it could cause serious injury or death.
Remove wheel.
Loosen caliper bolts.
If your vehicle has a two piece caliper (ie: some late model GMs), loosen all necessary bolts before removing the caliper.
Have your drain pan ready under the caliper, and loosen brake hose “banjo” bolt before removing caliper - pay attention to the hose position so it can be reinstalled the same way later.
IMPORTANT - Brake fluid is corrosive! DO NOT spill any on your car or yourself.
Remove caliper mounting bolts and remove caliper from steering knuckle.
Remove the banjo bolt that holds the brake hose to the caliper, and separate the caliper and hose.
Once the hose is separated from the caliper, be sure any fluid still dripping from it is caught in the drain pan.
In trying to prevent the loss of brake fluid, some people will try to clamp the brake hose. If you decide to try this, be very careful to not damage the hose. The inner material can be damaged and cause premature failure of the hose, and possibly loss of brake control.
Drain as much fluid as possible from the old caliper.
Separate caliper sections (if needed), remove the brake pads, shims, anti-rattle clips and any other hardware that may be needed on the new calipers.
NOTE - If your new caliper is “semi-loaded”, you can skip the next 3 steps
For added safety place blocks behind the rear wheels.
If your new caliper is “non loaded”, remove caliper bolts/sliders and rubber boots from the old caliper and inspect - if bolts/sliders are stripped, pitted, rusty or otherwise damaged, or the boots are torn, replace them.
Properly lube bolts/sliders by liberally applying caliper lube to any parts that the caliper slides upon, and also apply lube to the inside of the rubber boots or bushings that the sliders go through.
Install the rubber boots, bushings, bolts and sliders into the new caliper.
IMPORTANT - Properly lubed and functioning caliper bolts and sliders will help prevent premature wear and failure of brake pads, rotors and calipers.
Once all needed parts are removed from the old caliper, and the fluid has been drained from it, be sure to place it in the box the new caliper came in, and return it to your local PartSource location for your core refund (if applicable).
If replacing or machining the rotors, remove them next. For more information on replacing brake pads and rotors, check out our May 2005 Job of the Month.

Installation

Before installing new brake pads, you’ll want to make sure the caliper piston is compressed completely. This should be fairly easy with the caliper not attached to the brake hose, and no fluid in the caliper. There are different ways to compress different calipers, and if done improperly, you can destroy your caliper. By using PartSource Loan A Tool kit #18, and application specific instructions from Mitchell onDemand, you can avoid costly mistakes.
Once the caliper is compressed, you can install any shims, and anti-rattle clips. Never reuse old shims or anti-rattle clips.
Install the brake rotors.
Reattach the brake hose to the caliper, but don’t tighten it completely yet.
Install new brake pads onto the caliper, paying attention to inboard and outboard pad position.
Apply Anti-Seize to caliper bolt threads, and install caliper. Be sure to use proper torque setting on caliper bolts.
Once the caliper is installed, move the brake hose into it’s original position and tighten to the proper torque. Everything should now be reinstalled. Next you'll need to "bleed" the system. This makes sure you only have brake fluid in the brake lines and caliper. If you have any air left in the system, it will compress when you step on the brake pedal giving you a mushy feel to your brakes, and poor stopping performance. There are a couple of different ways to bleed brakes, but the result is the same. By using a one man vacuum style kit it can be done by one person. If you have a buddy able to lend a hand, all you need is a foot of hose, and a clear jar.
IMPORTANT - Always use new brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture in the air once the seal on a bottle has been broken. This effectively lowers the brake fluids boiling point and makes it less effective in the brake hydraulic system. If you’re using a one person brake bleeding kit, follow the instructions included with the kit. If a friend able to help, use the following guidelines
Fill the clear jar with 1-2 inches of new brake fluid.
Using a clear 3/8” hose, 1-2 feet long, attach one end to the bleeder valve of the caliper, and place the other end directly into the brake fluid in the clear jar.
Top up the fluid in the brake master cylinder.
While you hold the hose onto the bleeder valve, loosen the brake bleeder valve.
Keep holding the hose on the bleeder valve, and have your assistant slowly press the brake pedal down. This will force brake fluid from the master cylinder through the lines, forcing the air and fluid through the caliper, and out the bleeder valve.
You will see fluid and air bubbles coming out of the hose into the brake fluid in the jar. Make sure the hose stays in the fluid in the jar to avoid any air going back up to the caliper.
Check the master cylinder fluid level, and top up as needed.
Repeat the bleeding process until there are no air bubbles showing in the jar.
Once you are satisfied the system is free of air, have your assistant slowly step on the brake pedal one last time.
As fluid is flowing into the clear jar, tighten the bleeder valve, then check your master cylinder fluid level again. While you're at it, take a look at these parts: Brake hoses or lines leaking? Struts and/or shocks leaking? CV boots cracked or missing? Ball joints sloppy or need grease? Tie rod ends sloppy or need grease? Springs sagging or cracking?
Double check all your torque settings and make sure everything has been reinstalled.
Once you're satisfied everything is complete and safe, install the wheel, lower the car and repeat for the other side.
IMPORTANT - Always torque wheel lug nuts properly. Never use an impact gun on lug nuts! Over torqued lug nuts can quickly ruin new rotors by causing them to warp!
Take the car for a test drive, slowly at first until you're sure everything's good.
Once safely back home, re-check the brake fluid, and if everything looks good, you’re finished!
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