How To: Remove and Replace Struts - PartSource: Automotive, Truck Parts & Accessories

How To Remove and Replace Struts

In this month's Job of the Month we're going to remove an old set of struts and replace them with new ones.

The first time I did this job it took me an entire day. But after a lot of weekends in the garage it now takes me just a few hours.

If this is your first time removing and installing struts, this guide will take you through the job - step by step.

The Parts Pros wrote it, so you know it's good. If you get stuck or if you need to talk to a pro, give your local PartSource store a call. They'll be happy to help.

A few things before you begin

Spray those stubborn nuts and bolts with some penetrating fluid so it can soak in.

Take a quick look at the top and bottom of the strut. Are there any "odd" bolts or fasteners that you don't have the right tools for?

Struts should always be replaced in pairs. You should never replace only one strut or shock for safety reasons.

Make Safety Your Top Priority

Every vehicle is different, so when it comes to maintenance and repairs, always follow the vehicle's owner's manual.

Make sure you've got all your tools and supplies before you begin - the last thing you want to do is go shopping when you've got the car on the jack.

Safety should be your number one priority, so don't smoke, drink alcoholic beverages, or wear a necktie. And watch out for hot objects, sharp instruments, hazardous materials and other potential safety hazards in and around your workspace.

Don't work with a Philips when it calls for flat. Substituting tools can compromise your safety or a vehicle's performance.

And finally, when the fun turns to frustration or if the job requires specialized knowledge beyond your abilities, please do not attempt it yourself. Talk to a Parts Pro or seek the assistance of a professional mechanic or installer. The last thing we want is someone getting hurt.

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Remove the Struts
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Raise the vehicle and support it safely.

Remove wheel.

Remove the swaybar end link from the control arm or strut. Now’s a good time to inspect and replace the end link if it’s worn or damaged.

Remove any brake hose brackets or ABS wire clips on the strut.

If the outer tie rod attaches to the strut body, remove it using the 2 jaw puller. If outer tie rod attaches to the steering knuckle, you should be able to leave it as is.

Loosen the strut-to-knuckle bolts at the bottom of the strut - removing the brake caliper and rotor may be necessary to access the bolts.

Sometimes these bolts are splined and need to be hammered out of the knuckle. To avoid damaging the threads on the bolt, turn the nut until it's flush with the end of the bolt. This way you can hammer on the nut without damaging the bolt threads.

REMEMBER: Once the strut knuckle bolts are removed, the lower suspension is free to move or fall. If it moves enough it can over extend the CV driveshaft, messing up your the CV joints. Make sure the lower suspension has some sort of support once the strut bolts are removed to prevent damage to the driveshafts.

Remove upper strut mount nuts or bolts. Do not remove the center strut shaft nut; it'll ruin your entire day!

If you plan on reusing the old mount, mark one of the strut mount holes and bolt so the mount can be reinstalled the same way.

Once you've removed all the nuts and bolts from the top and bottom, the entire strut assembly can be removed from the vehicle.

Using the strut spring compressor, compress the spring to take pressure off the upper strut mount.

REMEMBER: Springs are under extreme pressure. They must be compressed properly to avoid injury. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, take the strut assembly to a reputable garage.

With a wrench on the strut shaft nut, and a socket or wrench on the end of the strut shaft, remove the shaft nut. The strut mount should now be able to be removed.

The strut assembly can now be disassembled. Remember, when you're removing the parts, pay attention to component placement. You want to put it back together the way it was.

Inspect all components for wear that are being reused (strut mounts/bearings, insulators, bump stops, etc.)

Transfer everything you're reusing, including the new replacement components to the new strut.

Torque the strut shaft nut onto the new strut, and carefully remove the spring compressor. Remember to follow the torque specs-don't over tighten.

Since you're already down there, check other parts that might need replacing before you install the new strut assembly:

Brake pads
Rotors
CV boots
Brake hoses
ABS ring and sensors
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
Bushings
Swaybar end links

Installing the Struts

Reinstall, in reverse of removal, the strut assembly, brake parts, brackets, swaybar end link, and any other removed parts. Make sure you use the right torque setting on all nuts and bolts.
*Use anti-seize on the strut-to-knuckle bolts to make future alignments easier.*
Double-check your work. Did you check for wear and tear on other parts? Are the torque settings are correct?
If you're completely satisfied with your work it's time to re-install the wheel, lower the vehicle and repeat for other side.
Once both struts are done, the vehicle should be taken for an alignment check and adjustment as soon as possible to prevent any tire or suspension damage from misalignment
*When a nut is difficult to reach and you need to install it, use electrical tape in the socket to hold the nut secure.*
FIGURE A - Typical Macpherson Strut Assembly
Make sure you've got all your tools and supplies before you begin – the last thing you want to have to do is go shopping when you've got the car on the jack. Safety is a major priority, so don't smoke, drink alcoholic beverages, or wear a necktie. And watch out for hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Every vehicle is different, so when it comes to maintenance and/or repairs, refer to your vehicle's owner's manual or if you have any questions, stop by a local PartSource store to talk to one of our Pros.